​Mád, one of the most renowned villages in the Tokaj wine region, has a history dating back to the 13^th century. Described as a market town in archival sources, Mád had already gained prominence for its wine production in the medieval period.

In the 18^th century, parts of Mád were owned by the Rákóczi family. After the defeat of Rákóczi’s War of Independence, their lands were confiscated and given to the Orczy-, Szirmay-, and Erdődy families, and in smaller part, to the Aspermonts. When Jewish families settled in Mád – in a similar fashion to other Jews who took up residence in the region – it was these noble families whose tenants they became.

The earliest recorded Jewish presence in Mád dates back to 1726, in the form of a Jewish family mentioned in a census. The head of the household was a tenant who leased lord István Orczy’s tavern. However, a less formal account of Jews precedes this date: a letter of complaint from 1609, in which the petitioner states that Jews under the protection of the noble Alaghy family are buying up local grapevines and vine-branches. By the end of the 18^th century, a substantial Jewish community resided in the village. The census data clearly show the change in population: with 317 Jewish individuals in 1821, 800 out of 4,600 inhabitants in 1850, and 882 out of 3,471 in 1881. However, subsequently the population started to decline: in 1910, only 729 persons out of 3,750 considered themselves Jews, in 1920, this number dropped to 547, and in 1941 to 304. One potential factor for this was World War I, the other being migration towards the central areas of Hungary, as well as emigration. The trend could also have been aggravated by the economic crisis, which was exacerbated in the region by the phylloxera epidemic that had had significant effects there since 1885. Furthermore, after the Treaty of Trianon, the town became isolated from northern neighbouring territories.

The Mád Jewish community began the construction of their synagogue in 1795, and it was around this time that the school, which was relocated from Bodrogkeresztúr, opened to the public. The town probably had its own rabbi from the mid-18^th century.

Like other Jews in the region, members of the Mád community also actively supported the revolution of 1848. According to Viktor Cseh in his book about the Jewish legacy of rural Hungary, the Mád Jewish community donated 300 forints to the patriotic cause, and according to accounts, one son of the local Neumann family fought beside Kossuth, even following him into exile.

The aftermath of World War I brought with it a series of distressful events, that later had tragic consequences. In 1940, three families were deported to Kamianets-Podilskyi, transferred to the nazis, who murdered Jews en masse. During World War II, starting in 1941, Jewish men were forced to participate in unarmed “labour service” within the army. The women, children, and elderly who were left at home were deported in the spring of 1944. They were corralled into the Mád synagogue, from where they were transported first to the Sátoraljaújhely ghetto, then in cattle trains to Auschwitz, where they were murdered. Approximately 40 Jews from Mád survived World War II. They attempted to revitalize their congregation, but due to their small numbers and continuing emigration, it quickly fell apart.

The heritage of Mád Jews was preserved in large part by the Holocaust survivor Rabbi Eliezer Ehrenreich (1922-2013), albeit no longer in Hungary but in New York. Ehrenreich played a pivotal role in renovating the Mád synagogue as well: he helped the restoration work by supplying sketches of the former ornamental motifs. Since his passing in 2013, his children have continued to uphold the legacy of Mád Jews in New York.

Today, Mád serves as a focal point not just for Jewish pilgrimage, but for tourism in general. In 2016, the Unified Hungarian Jewish Congregation (EMIH) established a visitor centre and exhibition space in the former rabbi’s house and school building, showcasing Mád’s Jewish heritage through family stories.

The Mád synagogue
(Mád, Magyar utca 67.)

The construction of the late Baroque (Louis XVI) style Mád synagogue took place between 1795 and 1798. These dates were confirmed during the restoration works that were implemented in 2004. The building is one of the finest examples of the Louis XVI style, four-columned synagogue, recognized as a characteristic Eastern- and Central European architectural type. According to some sources, this structural layout was introduced to the region by Italian masters. The building’s finely tuned proportions are highlighted by its hillside positioning. The four-column layout is an entirely functionalist approach, as the four columns serve not only decorative purposes, but also elevate the bimah (Torah reading platform) and by way of the 12 arches, also hold the weight of the entire ceiling. The stairs leading up to the women’s gallery was placed externally at the rear of the building. Although the gallery was enlarged sometime in the 19^th century, supplemented with a wooden structure, this was not reconstructed during the latest renovations. According to some sources, the town of Homonna, which lies to the north of Mád and also had a substantial Jewish community, was also furnished with a similar synagogue, which perhaps might have served as the model for this one.

The construction of the synagogue was funded by several wine merchant families, whose names can be read on the interior walls. Among these are the Teitelbaum and the Brean/Bran/Barun families. On another part of the wall, next to the Torah ark, one can also find an excerpt from the most important work of Jewish mysticism, the Zohar. This is a sure sign of the Hasidic element present in the Mád Jewish community.

The synagogue has been a protected monument since 1953. In 1979, the external walls of the decaying building underwent renovations. A few years later, in an effort initiated by the Goldmark Fund, previously available window frames were fitted, and the building was glazed, which guaranteed the preservation of the building’s condition for one and a half decades. After a hiatus, general renovation works were implemented as late as 2000. However, as a result of a four-year effort, the Mád synagogue is now included in the list of the one hundred most beautiful synagogues. The expert renovation work earned the synagogue a Europa Nostra Award in 2005.

PHOTOS:

1., 2., 3., 4.: Mád Synagogue Today.
5., 6.: Interior of Mád Synagogue.
7: Source
8: Memorial plaque for Jews murdered in the Holocaust.
9. The rear façade of the Mád synagogue seen above from the street.
10. The rear façade with the stairs leading to the women’s gallery. Tarcal, the synagogue building in the fall of 1985.
11. Carved iron doorway with stone-frame, Mád synagogue.
12. The Mád synagogue from the neighbouring garden.
13. The place of the Torah ark, demolished by the collapsed ceiling. After the war, the roof of the neglected building began to leak, the ceiling started to rot and ultimately collapsed. The ceiling was then restored by Monument Protection. A complete renovation was planned, but only an exterior renovation was implemented. The Mád synagogue.
14. The Mád synagogue’s interior from the women’s gallery on the fall of 1985, after the reconstruction of the collapsed ceiling and roof.

Former rabbi’s House
(Mád, Rákóczi utca 75.)

Closely tied to the synagogue was the former rabbi’s house, adjacent to the building, which was built around the same time, and also served as a religious school. After long decades of neglect, the building was renovated using funds from the European Union in 2016. Subsequently, it became the Tokaj-Hegyalja Jewish memorial centre, which now provides an interactive exhibition called “Footsteps of Wonderrabbis,” as well as lodging accommodation for pilgrims.

PHOTOS:

1., 2., 3.: The rabbi’s residence in Mád.

Mád Jewish cemetery
(Mád, Magyar utca 67.)

Situated in the northern outskirts of town, Mád’s Jewish cemetery is the largest in the Hegyalja region. Enclosed by a stone wall, the well-maintained cemetery features tombstones spanning 300 years, including those of notable rabbis such as Ábrahám Schwartz (1824-1883) and Mordeháj Winkler (1844-1932), as well as quite a few bearing the Teitelbaum family name, preserving the memory of the notable rabbi dynasty associated with the Hasidic school of Szatmár county.

PHOTOS:

1., 2., 3.: The cemetery today.